Being An American in Sweden

I’ve been living in Stockholm for ten years. I like it.

I like that I can speak English to a stranger without even wondering if he or she will answer in kind. I reckon around 95% of the people I encounter have conversational English, including immigrants from non-English-speaking countries.

I like that most Swedes, or at least those in Stockholm, whom I meet in passing will not fail to respond to an uninvited inquiry or observation I might make to them. It seems a Swedish characteristic to resist making the first step in a personal encounter but, once engaged, the Swedes I meet will not resist a bit of back-and-forth at the bus stop or grocery store.

Looking toward our apartment complex from the Minneberg bus stop

For both good and ill, in my view, popular American culture (i.e., from the USA part of the North American Continent) continues to flow into Sweden through fast food chains, IT-related companies, movies, TV, music, computer games, and fashion.

The language of business and science is English, and there is plenty of international business, science, medicine, and technology in Sweden.

So, I float along on this ambient bubble of English language (both American-style and the Queen’s), and the local familiarity with, even affinity for, popular USA culture.

I don’t look typically, or stereotypically Swedish. Many legal residents, immigrants, and children of immigrant Swedes don’t. From my DNA-genealogy service I learn that my two population reference groups are found in, first, Germany and, second, Lebanon. Three of my grandparents were born in Greece, and the fourth, born in the USA, had lineage back to Holland and Scotland. So, my appearance is not untypical of a person from, say, France, or thence southward and eastward. Before I open my mouth to speak American I might be taken as an immigrant from another part of Europe.

Upon a first conversation, I am often thought of as being from England. I always identify myself as from California. Almost everyone I meet has been to California, wants to go to California, or has a relative or friend in California. It’s still a magical place in the imagination of many.

(Beginning of rant)

What about the “socialism”?

What socialism? It rankles me that politicians and other professional talking heads in the USA make gratuitous and inaccurate assertions about Sweden’s form of government and its politics. They know nothing about it.

First, “socialism” is this (from merriam-webster.com):

1: …collective or governmental ownership and administration of the means of production and distribution of goods
2: a system of society or group living in which there is no private property

The government doesn’t own or administer the means of production, and private property is everywhere:

Sweden is a highly competitive capitalist economy with a generous and universal welfare state by applying very high income tax to all that distributes income across the entire society, a model sometimes called the Nordic model. Approximately 90% of resources and firms are privately-owned, with 5% owned by the state and another 5% operating as consumer or producer cooperatives. (Source).

Sweden is more accurately (but still too simply) called a “welfare state”, as in the above definition. I have heard the same word used for England.

Income taxes are graduated to 55% at the top marginal rate. There is a also 25% maximum value added tax (VAT, or “MOMS” in Swedish) on most things bought, including government services.

Taxes pay for what Swedes want the state to provide: single payer hospital and medical insurance (with limited co-payments), but with services provided and managed by counties and private companies; subsidized child daycare; preschool and grade school education; university and other post-grade school education (not books and housing); social services for various categories of people including immigrants, the disabled, the aged, and so forth. Whether this is “welfare” is arguable.

So far the medical services I have received have cost out-of-pocket something, but not too much, and I’m satisfied that my personal physician is properly solicitous for my health. I have had referrals to specialists who reassured me I’m in pretty good shape for the shape I’m in.

The point is that in this country of around 9.5 million people and with eight political parties, the voters have elected politicians who cause the government to provide these services. Currently, the government is scaling back the provision of some of these services, or the subsidies for them.

In addition, of course, the government does what most other governments do: defense, judiciary and law enforcement, coast guard and other national border maintenance, public health, foreign affairs, state land and property management, etc.

I opine that some of what the Swedish government does wouldn’t work in the USA because of different histories, and mostly because the USA is so vast in comparison; and, that the USA is a union of 50 different states for which there is no analog in Sweden.

End of rant; back to what I like.

I like that in Stockholm I don’t need to own a car. The public transportation system (for which I pay a senior-discounted $77 per month at the current exchange rate) is extensive and convenient. When we need a car, we reserve one via the Internet from a “bilpool”, a commercial enterprise that places cars around Stockholm. We pay for time and distance only.

Alvik Metro Station in the Fall

I like that Stockholm is an international capital. There are many national and international NGOs headquartered or with regional offices here. I attend many public presentations in English at some of these organizations, and also at some of the universities.

I like that Stockholm, and Sweden in general, is awash with good music, both popular and classical. My preferences are for blues, jazz and classical. There’s plenty of world class quality music to choose from. (See my blog/magazine on music).

I like that the national public news and broadcasting organization often hosts TV forums where the leaders of the eight  political parties, sometimes all of them together, answer questions from journalists and engage with the other leaders. It’s good for the democratic process.

I like that the political scandals, when they may occur (and not very often), are of the most benign nature, especially in comparison to, say, those occasionally revealed in Chicago or Washington. D.C: credit card stuff, minor hanky-panky.

Fall scene in neighboring Traneberg

I like that there are seasons in Sweden, and that one can welcome Spring and Summer so gratefully.

I like also that there are many English-speaking expatriates in Sweden, especially Stockholm, from the USA, Great Britain, and countries formerly in the British Empire. We form clubs, associations, and book discussion groups in which native Swedes are also welcome to use their English.

As I said, I’ve lived here ten years, longer than I have lived in any one house or apartment in California, Brooklyn, Alaska ,and Texas. (Places lived).

In the apartment complex where Eva and I live, I have watched the older folks grow still older. Some have disappeared; some have become less physically able. Even though I don’t have more than a nodding acquaintance with some of them, I feel akin to them. They, like I, are the survivors. Despite the long and often cold winters, despite life’s vicissitudes, they carry on stoically—a trait in Swedes that I admire.

That’s enough to like.

It’s good to be here.

A Most Successful Life-form: the Humble Dandelion

Homo sapiens have been on earth, as far we know, for no more than 200 thousand years. But this a blink of the eye compared to the Dinosaurs who appeared on Earth 250 Million years ago and populated the planet for almost 200 million years. But they disappeared as a species.

Consider, then, the extant cockroach who co-existed with the dinosaurs, appearing 200 million years ago, and which is still with us!

So, perhaps the fact that the humble dandelion (Taraxacum) has been on Earth only 30 million years should not impress us. But, this ubiquitous plant has lasted 150 times longer on Earth than Homo Sapiens. Would you agree that we have yet to prove ourselves as a successful life form?

I took this picture on my walk from home to the Alvik Metro Station on a recent morning, being impressed by the brilliance of these irrepressible yellow flowers. (click on all images for a larger view).

Eva and I have started our third spring as gardeners in a 65-square-meter (700 square feet) plot of land we are allowed to cultivate in Johannelunds Koloni near our apartment building in Minneberg. We spend much of the first few weeks of the gardening season in removing the deeply-rooted dandelions from the grass paths before they bloom, along with other unwanted plants from the garden such as ground elder, club moss, and grass which has invaded from the paths.  We always miss a good many dandelion plants, but they later reveal themselves by their bright blooms. So, we undertake the second and subsequent rounds of removal. Most of our neighbors are not so fastidious in removing dandelions, so when the beautiful seed heads appear around us we know we’ll be repeating our spring removal ritual.

A visiting family member from Malmö, with a carpet of dandelion blooms at her feet

Because I admire the pretty yellow flowers everywhere along the paths, roads and highways, and in uncultivated and unused lots, I have misgivings about removing them every spring from our garden. But we don’t want these blooms to detract from the many others we are cultivating, along with food plants.

 Ruderal species

The dandelion is a ruderal species, a plant which grows in poor soil and that is first to colonize disturbed lands. Ruderal means rubble. Dandelion’s affinity for grass is due to our habit of clipping it short enough for the seeds to take root, and for  the leaves and stems of the flowers to reach sunlight.

Success Factors

As in many ruderal species, the dandelion succeeds because of: 1) Massive seed production; 2) modest seedling nutritional requirements; 3) Fast-growing roots; and, 4) independence from mycorrhizae, a beneficial symbiotic association between a fungus (mycor) and the roots (rhiza) which most vascular plants need. (Source).

Dandelion Seed

Dandelion Seed (4.bp.blogspot.com/)

The dandelion provides its seeds with a complex flying apparatus, a tiny disc of radiating threads that form a parachute. A dandelion presents these seeds to the wind hoisted on the top of a stem and arranged as a fragile elegant globe. (Source).

Dandelion Root

Dandelion has a strong taproot capable of penetrating the soil to a depth of 10 to 15 feet, but it is most commonly 6 to 18 inches deep. (Source). Dandelion is rich in beta-carotene and potassium. In herbal medicine, dandelion is typically used for its appetite-stimulating, digestion-aiding, and laxative effects. Some studies suggest that dandelion used as an herb may help lessen inflammation and kill bacteria. (Source).

Dandelion leaves

One of my favorite childhood memories is of my two maternal aunts, Angie and Bea, harvesting dandelion leaves in what were then swampy lands around Newport Beach, California, where Bea and her husband Tommy lived. We had the leaves for dinner, boiled as we did with greens such as spinach or mustard greens which our family loved–with olive oil and lemon.

Dandelion leaf is a natural diuretic, and is commonly used to help remove excess water and toxins from the body. Dandelion Leaf helps promote bile excretion from the liver so the body can more efficiently process foods and liquids while also purging harmful toxins. (Source).

Don’t Be Fooled by False Dandelions

Dandelions are so similar to catsears (Hypochaeris) that catsears are also known as “false dandelions”. Both plants carry similar flowers, which form into windborne seeds. However, dandelion flowers are borne singly on unbranched, hairless and leafless, hollow stems, while catsear flowering stems are branched, solid and carry bracts. Both plants have a basal rosette of leaves and a central taproot. However, the leaves of dandelions are smooth or glabrous, whereas those of catsears are coarsely hairy. Hawksbeard (Crepis) flower heads and ripe seeds also are sometimes confused with dandelions. (Source).

History

Dandelions are thought to have evolved about thirty million years ago in Eurasia. They have been used by humans for food and as an herb for much of recorded history. They were introduced to North America by early European immigrants. (Source). This information surprised me because I thought dandelions grow throughout the northern hemisphere. I came to this incorrect notion because when I lived in Alaska, at the same latitude as Stockholm, dandelions were everywhere large and healthy throughout the sunny months.

Final Thoughts

I had reason to drive around the city today with Eva, and noticed dandelion flowers everywhere. Since she has lived here all her life I asked Eva if there were more flowers than usual. She thought not and suggested I was attuned to them more because of my current obsession with them. I am enjoying them so much (but not in my garden) I hope I can retain this obsession.

—

Post-publication addendum: I can’t resist adding another photo taken several days after first publishing this article:

Visiting a Friend in a Large University Medical Center

 

I arrived Flemingberg station in the Kommun (municipality) of Huddinge around 4PM, April 29, on the commuter railway from Stockholm to the north.

From the station platform I took a long escalator ride up to the bridge over the rail tracks, and turned right to access another very long escalator to the plaza level of the building complex surrounding Karolinska Universitetssjukhuset (Karolinska University’s Hospital—‘Sick House’).

Outside and inside the portal of the second escalator, at the lower level, I saw these works of art (click on all the images for expanded views):

The great open plaza outside the upper escalator portal did not immediately bring me to the hospital. There are several commercial shops catering to the education crowd, but dominating the area is Södertörns Högskola (Södertörn University), a curved building with monuments of natural stone and carved stone gracing its entrance at this level. The building housing Karolinska Intitute’s Dental School can be seen further along to the left:

I walked around the natural stone and under an arch of the curved building to enter upon a long outdoor corridor flanked on each side by rows of large buildings housing Karolinska Institutet, Novum Research Park and, further along, the hospital.

The curved building on the right is Södertörns Högskola. To its left, dimmed by a passing cloud, is the complex of smaller buildings comprising Novum Research Park. The two buildings opposite Novum (below it, in this image) and across the open corridor mentioned above (running horizontally in this image), are Karolinska Intitute’s school of dentistry (right) and a research building, with a lighter-colored roof. My objective was the information desk inside the entrance of the main building which is the widest, and in the center, of the five largest buildings. It is only partially under the clouds. This and the other buildings of the hospital are dedicated, according to their local “street” names, children, rehabilitation, surgery, medicine and infection (infectious diseases).

The corridor inside the main building is vast, like a mall or galleria. There are shops and restaurants. The person at the information desk was comfortable with my question in English, and answered in kind. My friend was in the surgery building on the 8^th floor, somewhere in wards 87-89. Someone there would direct me further.

I walked further down the wide corridor to the narrower (normal) corridor leading to the towers of the surgery building. At the second elevator tower I ascended from level 5 to level 8. The lobby area was vacant, so I wandered a bit to find the entrance to ward 87, “Transplants” (in Swedish).

I entered hesitantly, not seeing anyone at what seemed to be a combination business and reception office. I went a bit further, feeling like a dangerous, infectious alien to all the hidden patients. I heard some voices at a patient room to the left and waited for a partially visible professional worker to appear. She did, not seeming bothered at all by my humble appearance. I asked for my friend’s room. She promptly pulled a list out of a pocket, scanned it a few times, then looked up and smiled at me. I don’t hear well, especially Swedish, but via her good English, some body language and her smile, she led me across to ward 89 and pointed to a closed door where I could see my friend.

The first door led to a small area for washing and otherwise preparing to enter (and leave, I suppose) the patient bedroom. The second door led me to my friend’s private room, with her sitting at a small table conversing with another friend in the USA, with video, on her iPad2.

I had successfully navigated the labyrinth.

 

Observing All Souls’ Day in Stockholm, November 2010

 

On All Souls’ Day or All Saints’ Day, depending on one’s tradition, Eva and I usually visit the cemetery where her ancestors are buried. It is always a soulful occasion. We went yesterday, November 6, once again.

The tradition is to place a lighted candle by the gravestone.

The North Burial Ground (Norra begravningsplatsen), is actually located within the municipality of Solna, but is owned by the municipality of Stockholm. The cemetery was inaugurated in 1827. Many architects were been involved in the design of the cemetery: Gustaf Lindgren, Gunnar Asplund, Sigurd Lewerentz, and Lars Israel Wahlman. There are many sculptures, reliefs and other artistic embellishments by prominent Swedish sculptors, including Carl Eldh and Carl Milles. Many persons famous in Sweden, and some well-known in the USA, are buried here. Among the latter are  Ingrid Bergman, Franz Berwald, Vilhelm Moberg, Alva Myrdal and Gunnar Myrdal, Alfred Nobel, and August Strindberg.

Later in the day we attended a concert performance at the local church in Alvik, featuring Gabriel Fauré’s Requiem. I was drawn to the concert, the day before, by a notice posted at the bus stop in Minneberg where we live. I was in a hurry to catch the bus and wasn’t able to determine the location of the church where the concert was to be. For some reason this piece by Fauré was on my mind and I wanted to hear it. So later on Saturday Eva and I perused the Stockholm newspaper to locate the concert. We found no less than 20 churches offering special concerts on Alla Helgons Dag. These included requiems and other sacred pieces by Bach, Barber, Brahms, Charpentier, Dowland, Franck, Gabrielli, Grieg, Messiaen, Mozart, Poulenc, Preston, Rautavaara, Stenhammar, Vasks, and Vaughan-Williams.

Finally, we found the local church, Sankt Ansgars (Saint Ansgar’s) as the venue.

This is a modern, plain and unassuming church. It there are no pews, just folding chairs. The decorations are few and a small pipe organ sits on the one floor, the only level of the building, apparently. During religious services I imagine no more than 150 people can fit into the one public room.

I paint this picture deliberately to put into juxtaposition the beautiful music and its excellent performance by the church’s choir and instrumentalists. We saw one of the choir members was a fellow gardener whose plot is adjacent to ours in the local garden koloni.

There were around 20 choristers plus two soloists, a soprano and a baritone. There were ten musicians, including the organist. The music leader was also a pianist during the three introductory pieces, before the requiem was presented. The harpist was also a chorister (not simultaneously) and was, of course, a tall young woman with long blonde hair as all harpists should be (except for Harpo Marx, of course).

Now, think of all the other performances of the day. What a lot of singers and instrumentalists in Stockholm! And all, without a doubt, of excellent quality, as I have invariably experienced.

Brian J. Brundin, 1939 – 2008

Another soulful incidence, or co-incidence, is that the church’s präst is named Håkan Brundin. A dear friend, Brian Brundin, formerly of Alaska and later of Arizona, died almost three years ago. It was Brian who, when I lived in Alaska, first introduced me to the pleasures of aqvavit and lutfisk, and who regaled me and others with gentle humor about Olle and Lena, two stereotypical Swedish characters. He was a colleague, a friend and a mentor.

I allowed my heart to dwell on Brian during the performance of this Requiem by Fauré.